Nigel Cabourn x Liam Gallagher
As for Nigel, he’s been collecting, designing and generally thinking about parkas and military garb since the late 1970s. In fact, a range based around a vintage British Royal Air Force jacket given to him by Sir Paul Smith was one of his first major successes all the way back in 1979.
The Nigel Cabourn x Liam Gallagher Ventile Smock Collection launches at HANON October 21st.
The Long Smock takes design cues from a 1940s over-the-head US Army anorak found in Nigel’s extensive collection. This rugged beauty caught the eye of both Liam and Nigel thanks to that sizeable kangaroo pocket on the front and the off-centre three-button collar. Both highly-distinct, functional details of the day, designed for purpose — that also happen to look really, really good.
To bring things up to date a bit, they added a dipped hem, made the jacket a touch longer and added a few more colour options than the general issue olive drab. There are also some big zips up the sides for ease of entry — a very useful detail. As you’d expect from two people who are particularly particular when it comes to parkas, the attention to detail is second to none, and trimmings come in the shape of waxed cotton drawstrings (three, to be exact) and some nice and chunky wooden stoppers.
Then there’s that Ventile fabric. Ventile is one of those mysterious words which crops up a lot in the world of old military jackets. It’s basically an incredibly densely woven cotton which swells when wet to create a water-resistant barrier and keep you nice and dry. It’s also got a pretty intriguing story…
Designed in the 1930s by the aptly titled British Cotton Industry Research Association at the Shirley Institute in South Manchester (a strong-armed stone’s throw from where Liam grew up in nearby Burnage), it was originally devised as a hard-wearing fabric which could be used to make firehoses. Meanwhile, RAF pilots forced to eject from their aircraft over the North Sea were being plunged into icy waters and had only a few minutes to live. Something warm and water-resistant was required — and, as you might have predicted considering the subject of this article, Ventile was the solution.
Good stuff then. We should probably also mention that these jackets were made in England — in the Macintosh factory in Lancashire, to be precise. This place has been making top-notch outerwear for the last 20 years and is the same factory that makes Nigel’s Cameraman Jackets.
Nigel Cabourn x Liam Gallagher Ventile Smock
NCXLGAW19OW2 - OR / YE / GN / BLK
Vintage Orange / Yellow / Army Green / Black